又一個餐廳排行榜掀盅了，那就是「The World's 50 Best Restaurants」，數數手指今年已是第11個年頭。在昨天名單已陸續曝光，到了今天已是人所共知的事。作為「圈內人」，好歹也要看看是年的選擇是什麼，是年經投票產生的結果如下：
第一名至第十名：
1. Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark)
2. El Celler de Can Roca (Girona, Spain)
3. Mugaritz (San Sebastian, Spain)
4. D.O.M. (Sao Paolo, Brazil)
5. Osteria Francescana (Modena, Italy)
6. Per Se (New York, USA)
7. Alinea (Chicago, USA)
8. Arzak (San Sebastian, Spain)
9. Dinner by Heston Bluemnthal (London, England)
10. Eleven Madison Park (New York, USA)
怎樣選出來的？
當然，每次有什麼什麼選擇都有人說是「biased」又或是不公平，老實說這個地球上選什麼也有更佳的選擇，總不能取悅每一個人，何況是將各種不同的菜式去作出比較？你說會有共識我也不相信。究竟這個「The World's 50 Best Restaurants」是怎樣選出來的？原來是將全世界劃分做27個不同的地區，每個地區會有一個包括食評人、廚師及餐廳經營者的31人評審委員會投票而成。
第十一名至第二十名：
11. Steirereck (Vienna Austria)
12. L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joel Robuchon (Paris, France)
13. The Fat Duck (Bray, England)
14. The Ledbury (London, England)
15. Le Chateaubriand (Paris, France)
16. L’Arpege (Paris, France)
17. Pierre Gagnaire (Paris, France)
18. L’Astrance (Paris, France)
19. Le Bernardin (New York, USA)
20. Frantzen/Lindeberg (Stockholm, Sweden)
票來怎樣投的？
基本上這50間最好的餐廳是經每個評審委員投票選出的，他們每人可以投7票，當中有4票是要投給其選區內的餐廳，另外3票就要投給選區外的餐廳。7票分先後次序投出，必要是在18個月內光顧過的地方，此外評審員也不能投給自己工作的餐廳。
那結果如何？
照道理，以這個制度來說覆蓋面是相當足夠的。是年度的頭三位跟2011年是一樣的，「世界第一」仍然是丹麥哥本哈根（米芝蓮二星）的Noma。頭十位除了D.O.M.是在南美洲，歐洲佔6間而餘下的3間在美國。而在這十傑中，米芝蓮二星已是最低級別。無論大家去過當中的幾多間都好，似乎也是大家下次旅遊時的不錯指標。
第二十一名至第三十名：
21. Oud Sluis (Sluis, Netherland)
22. Aqua (Wolfsberg, Germany)
23. Vendome (Bergisch Gladbach, Germany)
24. Mirazur (Menton, France)
25. Daniel (New York, USA)
26. Iggy’s (Singapore)
27. Nirasawa (Toyko, Japan)
28. Nihonryori RyuGin (Tokyo, Japan)
29. Quay (Sydney, Australia)
30. Schloss Schauenstein (Furstenau, Switzerland)
那號稱美食之都的香港又如何？
在50名內就只得Amber入圍，位列44比2011年下降7位。其他餐廳方面，同是米芝蓮二星的Bo Innovation位列52，比往年上升12位。另外的幾間港澳米芝蓮三星店方面，Caprice就是54位，舊有的Robuchon a Galera（現為Robuchon au Dôme）及龍景軒分別是82及93位。
亞洲區又如何？
港澳區有5間店子入選100大其實成績已不俗，放眼亞洲，日本就只得東京的六本木龍吟及Narisawa入圍，分佔27及28位。至於新加坡入圍的也是3間，當中Iggy’s更是亞洲區中名次最高的26位，其餘兩間就是53位的 Les Amis及68位的Restaurant Andre。地大物博的中國又如何？還好有一間餐廳入選100大，就是位列95位上海法國菜館Mr & Mrs Bund。
第三十一名至第四十名：
31. Asador Etxebarri (Atxondo, Spian)
32. Le Calandre (Runamo, Italy)
33. De Librije (Zwolle, Netherland)
34. Fäviken (Järpen, Sweden)
35. Astrid y Gaston (Lima, Peru)
36. Pujol (Mexico City, Mexico)
37. Momofuku Ssam Bar (New York, USA)
38. Biko (Mexico City, Mexico)
39. Waku Ghin (Singapore)
KC的一點意見：
單看投票的機制似乎在餐廳及菜式的覆蓋而是足夠的，但就結果來看，各亞洲餐廳及亞洲菜系的認同率是低得難以置信，如50間最好的餐廳是一間中菜館也沒有，排名最高的中菜館已是香港的龍景軒。不由你不信，或者大家不同意米芝蓮推介的選擇，但二者的結果卻又不謀而合的。而除了新日本料理店龍吟以外，和食及其他日本料理是一概不入圍，這也不禁令大家想想這個排行榜的主觀性。
第四十一名至第五十名：
40. Quique Dacosta (Denia Spain)
41. Mathias Dahlgren (Stockhom, Sweden)
42. Hof van Cleve (Kuishoutem, Belgium)
43. The French Laundry (Yountville, USA)
44. Amber (Hong Kong, China)
45. Vila Joya (Albufeira, Portugal)
46. Il Canto (Siena, Italy)
47. Bras (Laguile, France)
48. Manresa (Los Gatos, USA)
49. Geranium (Copenhagen, Denmark)
50. Nahm (Bangkok, Thailand)
再多五十間及其他獎項，請按此。
不過有排名就有主觀成份在內，這也不難理解也不可避免，你同意不同意，高興不高興都好，排名就是這樣的了。至少在餐廳同業來說，多一個銜頭總也有利沒害的。
小圈子選舉！
回覆刪除咁飲食圈從來不大而從表面看評審的覆蓋面是足夠的，只是從結果看卻甚偏頗。
回覆刪除Most of these restaurants have either received Michelin Star and a lot of international press and media coverage (TV, newsprint/magazines/journals, internet, radio etc) or some other form of fame and recognition, but more importantly, international interest from traveling foodies/food and fine dining lovers worldwide. High visibility, marketing/communication also helps a lot. This is why it comes as no surprise that Lung King Heen made it. The rest of the equation is whether there is already some sort of established relationship between the reviewers and the kitchens/management of the establishments (re: restaurant industry politics,how to play the game, not that different from working in a multi hierarchy in a large financial corporation or business). One can only guess what had to happen for this voting to take place.... I'm sure Lung King Heen and Sun Tung Lok are known to the world for dim sum, even if they do very nice high end Cantonese banquet dining...but that is the nature of the global beast that knows little about Chinese food for Chinese, or Japanese food for Japanese for that matter. What is also interesting is that many of the best 50 restaurant chefs...a lot of them draw their inspiration from Japanese cuisine, yet only RyuGin made it on the list (Nariwasa is French slanted, so doesn't really count). Maybe RyuGin also did enough work to appeal to global visitors and wants their business, versus those who are not in the limelight, but truly excellent, and perhaps feel more comfortable doing business with their own kind (or those who go out of their way to eat there despite language barriers). At the end of the day, it is just a matter of personal preference, what fine dining means to oneself. So places like Luk Yu, Yan Toh Heen, Celebrity, Island Tang, or even the non fine dining places like Queen's College Alumni or Aberdeen Fish Market Canteen, don't really need the worldwide exposure, in case that causes quality to suffer even further from all that scrutiny (and chances are what they do might be misunderstood and unappreciated).
回覆刪除說的也對，但龍吟賣的是新日本料理，在我而言也要花上一點想像力才能明白菜式的精要。反而傳統的日本料理卻一間也不在列，甚至一百大也不見影？我對傳統日本料理的水準沒有懷疑，似乎評審的識見也可見一斑。
回覆刪除也不要說博大精深的中華料理了。