七月中旬.晴
(KC相關的報章專欄文章在此)
是晚經濟日報的老總跟飲食網站的大員請吃飯,數數手指,剛好一年未見了。時移勢易,也正好更新一下大家的狀況,看看有什麼可以再合作的地方。地點由我選,就來這裡。因為聞說這裡的薄餅是全城做得最好的,但一直沒有機會試,就等這晚假公濟私的來一來。
不過這裡也是利害的,之前曾經也試過幾次想來,但不是幾天前已訂滿,就是給包了場,可見是旺場的。如是日,早在一週前訂位,也只能確認九時十五分的座位,那就先約了在下面酒吧喝一杯吧。早了來到,只是周三,連樓下的酒吧也坐滿人的。還好可以騰空幾個位置,但也不能不承認,真的是一間旺場店子。
先來一杯意大利氣酒,喝餐前酒,我也是一時時,有時很喜歡喝威士忌,這一排不知是否天氣熱,所以也想喝一杯氣酒。這晚的是Nino Franco的Prosecco,泡沫幼細豐富,聞起來有點果香。味道帶點微酸,感覺較乾身,作為餐前酒,很適合。拿個餐牌看看,是走簡單路線,六、七款前菜,還有火腿及香腸,加上薄餅的一欄,就是這樣了。擬定好吃什麼,專心的繼續喝我的Prosecco。
老總及大員也到了,大家也決定留在樓下好了,這邊吃東西是比較輕鬆一點。三個人,也不想吃得太多,就要了個三併的前菜併盤,芝士蘑菇薄餅及甜品就行了。再來兩杯Prosecco,侍應才拿來餐前麵包。是切了粒的意式麵包,拿上手已經不禁脫口而出「為何這麼硬的?」吃起來毫不鬆軟,以麵包而言,感覺還有點不新鮮,以一個會自家搓製麵糰的地方而言,吃到這個水準真的是意料之外。
前菜併就放了在一個大碟內,什麼也選一點,由南到北,分別是蝦沙律、水牛芝士沙律及麵包沙律。這裡標榜的是拿玻里式的薄餅,那直覺地也要試試蝦吧,因為還記得在那裡遊歷期間,吃了很多很出色的蝦。但是晚的蝦沙律(Gamberi insalata)用的是本地的海中蝦,燒得不錯,不過一看就已經興趣不大,沒有吃,不評其味道了。
水牛芝士是很普通的意大利前菜,但要吃得滿意的,一點不易,強如Don Alfonso,都有失手時。但是日的水牛芝士就很不錯了,質地很軟熟,吃起來內芯的部份還帶點韌性,隱約透出奶香,好吃。調味也做得好,用上燒透了的紅椒絲及oregano,甜味加上微辛,還有香草的香味,是值得一吃的前菜。
最後選了的是Panzanella,即是麵包沙律是也。如果去托斯卡尼地帶遊歷,很多時吃飯也會奉上這一味麵包沙律作前菜,用來伴酒也可以。主要是切粒麵包混上橄欖油及紅酒醋,夾乾鴨肉及其他沙律菜一起吃的一味。但這裡的麵包做得奇硬,吃起上來令人不明所以,是那裡出了錯?
好了,主角上場,芝士磨菇薄餅(Quattro Funghi)就放在一塊木板上拿上來。從上面的餡料的狀態,感覺到那股熱力,旁邊的位置漲起,看到有焦黑了的地方,看上去是脆口的,相當不錯。雖然未親身見過,但這裡用的是正宗用來焗薄餅的磚爐,溫度高,可以焗出最好的薄餅,看來所言非虛。
好了,大家也急不及待的去拿一塊,一拉,就知不對路。為何中間的餡料是這麼多的?邊位是薄、乾且脆,但中間卻是又重又濕的。這樣子的薄餅,不易用手拿起,只能將之摺起來,又或是用叉子去幫忙,也不是我心目中理想拿玻里式薄餅的樣子。味道方面,不差,薄餅本身脆口,內裡還帶一點韌性,也充滿小麥香,以我的標準而言,這裡的麵糰是搓得不錯的。所以,如果你不介意餡料太多的話,是不錯的。但於我而言,就有點失望,至少這裡的薄餅是不比Isola的好。
最後的甜品獨沽一味,就是意大利雪糕Gelati。在六款味道之中,選了紅莓。口感幼滑,紅莓的味道天然,其酸味剛好平衡了吃了一頓的膩滯感覺,相當好。談了很多,不知不覺已近十一時,也在此謝謝高層的請客。希望這裡只是一時失手,不然的話,徒負了好的器材,好的材料。最後想說,服務方面,這裡的侍應看上去都很「型」,但招呼卻很一般。
評分:(以5個&為滿分)
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餐廳資料:
208 Duocento Otto
上環蘇豪荷李活道208號舖
2549 0208
kc : 誠邀閣下來911清酒屠酒會 ? 如何 ? 1800-2100 my email: sake817@yahoo.com.hk
回覆刪除在香港,像Isola這樣高級一點,但什麽也賣的意大利餐廳,如果每一枱也叫一個百零元的pizza,然後麽也不用叫的話,店舖是沒法經營下去的,所以才有那個輕盈版,像餅乾多一點的pizza.無可否認,Isola的pizza是相當出色的.但跟你所說一樣,麵糰部份從來是pizza的主角,看相片及你的描述-外邊不太規則,充滿"焦點",批底脆脆的,中間濕潤加芝士的gooey,如沒有太多topping喧賓奪主的話,這其實才是一個很理想及正宗的pizza,不單在Napoli,而整個意大利的也是賣差不多的(只有在美國才有很多古靈精怪不同的版本).下次再去的話,可以試試有茄汁種類的,這個沒茄汁的,可能芝士用得重手了.
回覆刪除草草一刀兄,謝謝邀請,感覺尤如給邀約上華山比武,我要看看,再在電郵跟你聯絡。
回覆刪除O,其實在香港做一間小小的薄餅店,做得正宗的話,有可為的。下次我會試試Margherita,看看會不會好一點。
KC兄你好﹐
回覆刪除Long time reader, 1st time commenter.
O 兄的說法是非常正確的.
正宗的pizza napoletana其實批邊會puff up很高(有時可以超過兩寸)﹐批中間是soggy的﹐而且店方不會幫你預先開每一slice, 而是自己一整個用刀叉切的。
小弟在紐約居住了十多年,這邊的pizza(最好的多是一些不起眼的小店)跟在香港(pizza hut)吃到的真的很不一樣(特別在紐約市)。
如果你問我﹐我會覺得大部份香港人的pizza口味應停留於pizza 多料多cheese 那種...
Kwan Kit兄,
回覆刪除謝謝分享。
我不是說要切定才焗,也同意這裡看上去是很對辦的。但如果中間部份濕得要用羹也拿得起的,太過份了吧?
絕對同意閣下對本地人的pizza口味,所以也很希望有正宗一點的意大利薄餅店的出現,等大家也識食一點。
KC
不是說笑...neapolitan pizza 的中心真的是很濕的...當然﹐不同的店鋪所做的pizza 也各有分別。 Wood Oven﹐ Gas oven, 跟 coal oven 所做的pizza 已經不同了(還未計算不同的麵粉mix...)
回覆刪除http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2008/01/a-list-of-regional-pizza-styles.html
這是一個簡單介紹在美國不同地區一般可以食到的pizza的網址。
Kwan Kit,
回覆刪除Long time New York resident here! Slice is also one of my favorite websites.
Have you been to Motorino? Love the pizza there! Of course there is Di Fara, and so many places that got really good pizza!
To me, I am not restricted to a particular style of pizza, Naple has its own style, but there are also other variations, and I don't mind a good Brooklyn styled pizza.
But regardless of what style it must be done right. The timing of dough /yeast development, pizza dough stretching skills, selection and freshness and porpotion of the ingredients, temperature and timing of the baking, thickness and ratio of pie crust vs pie vs ingredients, the amount of char.... All these come into play.
I so agree that NYC is so different from the rest of the US in terms of culinary scenes. It's MILES ahead of other cities (even LA, Cali, Chicago are still a bit behind with minimal exceptions)
Little Meg
Hello Little Meg,
回覆刪除Good to see another New Yorker here. I live in Kensington, Brooklyn; where do you live?
Motorino is on my to-eat list...so is Paulie Gee, Lucali, Keste, Fornino...etc.
Have you tried L'Asso on Mott and Kenmare st near Chinatown? Aside from the usual Neapolitan and Neo-neapolitan offerings, they have an awesome clam pie. It's kinda sad to see Lombardi's on next block always crowded with people (mostly tourists) while L'Asso is almost always empty...
And of coz, there is Di Fara...
Hi Kwan Kit,
回覆刪除I used to live in the Financial District of Manhattan (close to work). First year, on Wall St, then on Water Street, right opposite to Ritz Carlton downtown. But now I have relocated back to HK, and that's how I got to know and eat with Master KC!
I have tried all the ones you mentioned except Paulie Gee. I still like Motorino the best, but most of the pizzaria in NYC are substantially better than those in HK, and they offer a varitey from very authentic Italian pizza to New York Styled or Brooklyn Styled pizza. As mentioned, I am not restricted to a particular style of pizza, as long as it's done right.
I have given up on Lombardi a long time ago. Their clam pie was disastrous, with tastelss and tough clams and aweful pizza dough.
Little Meg
KC:
回覆刪除I tried 208 yesterday, and the Margherita was excellent (all the bread, cheese and tomato sauce were just perfect together!). Although you may still find it slightly wet, it should be much better than the mushroom one.
I think 208 has improved after receiving feedback/reading reviews online. I ordered Panzanella and the bread soaked in olive oil and vinegar was spongy and elastic rather than hard.
It is really worth a try again, esp. the Margherita there. Looking forward to your sophisticated reviews!;)